ALL ABOUT LEATHER!

The history of leather is traced back to the beginnings of human culture. Today we tend to think of leather as a fixed and uniform item - something that is pretty much the same everywhere. NOT TRUE. Leather for furniture comes mostly from cattle, and no two hides are alike. Age, heredity and environment all influence the character (and price) of leather.  It has proven over the years to be the strongest, most versatile and natural upholstery material (not to mention most comfortable).  On top of it all, buying leather product is environmentally sound.  No animal is killed for its hide.  The leather used for furniture is a by-product of our meat eating society.

Hides selected for furniture are sliced lengthwise (longitudinally). Only the outer surface ("top grain") should be used.  The lower portion or "splits" are weaker (this is due to a few factors: an elongated cell structure, and a one-way fiber pattern - both are properties of weak materials).   These "splits" are subject to stretching and therefore provide an unstable base on which to work (this can result in the cracking of top coat finishes and poor coloring over time).

Why are there different grades and prices?

Leather is a natural material graded much like a diamond.  The fewer imperfections on the hide, the rarer it is for manufacturers of furniture to acquire.  When there is less supply, the item is costlier.  Hides are sourced all over the world.  The cooler climates (like in Northern Europe), combined with the animals being raised in controlled pastures or pens, produces hides with few imperfections.  Regardless of the manufacturer or their grading system, these cooler climate hides are the top of the line.  Conversely, the hotter the climate, and the climates with the greatest extremes, combined with the animals being raised on an open range, will produce hides that are more weathered, aged, scarred, bug bitten, etc.  These imperfections must then be processed (buffed or sanded or filled) before dyed.  By far, there is a greater quantity of this type of hide available in the world - this means the supply is great and the price low.  The cost of raw leather is determined by the origin of the animal and by supply and demand, not by where the hides are tanned!

There are three main categories of upholstery leather:

(each mfg'er offers their own grades of leather - these are general properties common to all upholstery leather)

• Aniline Dyed* Leathers:     Lovers of truly natural products are particularly fond of these leathers: their unequaled, glove-soft texture adds an extra dimension of comfort to your sofa or chair. To create this luxurious softness and the rich gem-like color, aniline dyed leathers are tumbled for up to 12 hours in drums containing clear, transparent dyes. These dyes enhance the subtle variations of each hide. All leathers get better over time, but aniline dyed leathers develop a truly beautiful, distinctive patina which adds to its value as a focal point in your home. Only premium hides with the most pleasing color and texture are selected for this category, less than 5% of all upholstery hides in the world.  Many grades of leather, from all tanneries, are aniline dyed and natural.

  *definition cut from Glossary below:     Aniline Dyed:   Leather that has been dyed with aniline, a clear dye which permeates the entire hide. There is no pigment (paint) or finish put on pure aniline dyed leather to correct imperfections. That is why only the finest leathers can be used since they have to be in excellent shape. Pure aniline dyed leathers are known for their soft, natural feel as well as their beauty since they have no corrective finish. They are sometimes referred to as "naked" leather. This represents about five percent of all leather in the U.S. Aniline dyes offer little resistance to soil, stains, or sunlight.

• Semi-Aniline* Leathers:     Also referred to as "Aniline Plus", these leathers are first dyed in the penetrating aniline dyes. Then a topcoat is applied to even out the color of the hide surface. The topcoat also serves to create fading- and soil-resistant pieces.  Semi-aniline leathers are available in hundreds of colors. They retain a great amount of the softness of aniline dyed hides because the natural top grain is left intact. A much larger proportion of the worldwide hide supply is suitable for this class of leather and as a result they are more moderately priced than pure aniline dyed hides.

  *definition cut from Glossary below:     Semi-Aniline:   A process to aniline that provides stain protection, color consistency, and lower maintenance. Leather that has been dyed with aniline, a clear color dye that permeates the entire hide. There is either a transparent or slightly pigmented finish applied to improve resistance to wear and light.

• Corrected Grain* Leathers:      Many hides are very marred by naturally occurring imperfections or "thumbprints" such as insect bites, barbed wire scars, scrapes and other defects. To remove these imperfections, Corrected Grain leathers are first sanded or buffed, then usually embossed to restore a natural-looking grain pattern. Finally, additional color and a protective coating is applied. Some natural softness is sacrificed in the process, but the great number of hides that fit this category make this the most economical grade of top grain leather furniture, and extremely resistant to stains and fading.

  *definition cut from Glossary below:     Corrected:   To buff or sand to remove imperfections in the grain.

Whether you need tough leather that withstands the daily wear and tear of children and pets, or a delicate and supple leather that adds class and still holds up to a demanding environment

glossary:

Full Grain: Top-grain leather in its natural state (not corrected or buffed), including the "beauty marks" or "thumbprints of nature" which makes each hide unique.

Top-Grain: The top, outermost, strongest, most durable part of the hide. Very durable because there are no consistent fiber patterns along which the hide can tear. The natural fibers run in all directions, a property of very strong materials.

Split-Grain: The lower layer of the hide, cut away when getting to the top-grain. Much less strength and overall durability because the fibers in split-grain leather run in one direction allowing a crack or tear to possibly form. Ages differently and can be very noticeable when pieced with top-grain leather on the same piece of furniture. Be careful when shopping for leather furniture because split-grain is technically still "all-leather" or "genuine", but definitely not the quality of top-grain.

Aniline Dyed: Leather that has been dyed with aniline, a clear dye which permeates the entire hide. There is no pigment (paint) or finish put on pure aniline dyed leather to correct imperfections. That is why only the finest leathers can be used since they have to be in excellent shape. Pure aniline dyed leathers are known for their soft, natural feel as well as their beauty since they have no corrective finish. They are sometimes referred to as "naked" leather. This represents about five percent of all leather in the U.S. Aniline dyes offer little resistance to soil, stains, or sunlight.

Semi-Aniline (aka: Aniline Plus): A secondary process to aniline that provides stain protection, color consistency, and overall lower maintenance. Semi-aniline hides are leathers that have been dyed with aniline, the clear color dye described above. Then either a transparent or slightly pigmented finish is applied to improve resistance to wear and light.  There are semi-aniline hides that are very soft.

Corrected: To buff or sand to remove imperfections in the grain.  Corrected leathers, by their very nature, can not be full grain because the outer surface has been altered.  But if it was the outer layer of the hide that was sanded, these can still be top-grain leathers (and obviously, a sanded lower layer would be a corrected split grain leather).

Tanning: The process used to preserve hides. These are pigmented with chromium salts, which change the hide's chemical structure, preserving it for a lifetime.

Vinyl: A synthetic material, occasionally used in furniture. Does not breathe, making a very uncomfortable seating surface. Reflects heat onto whatever is near it (in this case, a person trying to relax and get comfortable).   If you think leather is "hot in the summer,and cold in the winter"...   you are thinking of vinyl.  Leather will be at whatever temperature your room is, and not 1 degree different.  It breathes and adjusts.

Suede: Process of raising fibers on the hide to give velvet nap effect by buffing. Suede's are almost always full aniline.

Embossed: To form a natural-looking leather pattern by using a pressure plate.  Most very protected leathers are corrected grain leathers: they are sanded and/or buffed, then may be embossed to replace the lost pattern seen in natural leather.

Sauvage: a process creating a beautiful, marbled appearance to the leather.

Pull Up:  leather that has been injected with oils and/or coated in waxes.  Scratch them and the mark is there, until rubbed away.   Made for luxurious softness or waxy appearance.

Distressed, Aged or Antiqued hides:  The "bomber-jacket" or aged look is achieved by applying a wax to the surface of the leather and them tumbling the hides.  The tumbling causes the wax to "break" at the creases, resulting in the worn and wrinkled look.